Glenelly Estate, Mollydooker and other bin end bargains

This week we feature the outstanding wines of South Africa’s Glenelly Estate – the remarkable vision of Madame May de Lenquesaing who, after 30 years as the owner of the famous Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Bordeaux, purchased the estate in 2003 and has transformed it into one of the country’s leading producers. Not all of the wines are “on sale” but the prices are among the best in the UK. We make up for this by listing some fantastic value bin ends, including wines from iconic Australian estate Mollydooker as well as Chile’s Maycas del Limari Cabernet Sauvignon.

Glenelly Estate lies in the Idas Valley, en route from Stellenbosch to Franschhoek on the beginning of the Helshoogte Pass. Its origins date back to the 17th century. Simon van der Stel, Governor of the Cape, gave the land to the French Huguenot François Villon in 1682. In 1812 the estate remained in French hands when it passed on to Johan Peter de Villiers. The vineyards are a heritage site which is revered in Glenelly's holistic approach. The architecture of the main cellar building allows a tiered workflow where the use of gravity in the working warehouse helps to reduce energy consumption – a veritable waterfall of wine. The barrel cellar's unique feature is 15km of embedded pipe work inside the concrete running cold water to regulate core temperature, saving 70 % energy costs and consumption. Water is recycled throughout the estate, and fynbos borders encourage natural balance between the birds and the bees (and the wasps and the ants) in the vineyards.

The winery is the vision of Madame May de Lenquesaing who, after 30 years as the owner of the famous Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Bordeaux, purchased the estate in 2003. From the stately gates up the slopes past the beautifully restored manor house to a Frank Lloyd Wright-style working space, Glenelly Estate cuts a fine profile of a young wine farm cultured with wisdom. Madame has taken many years of wine making experience in Bordeaux, France, adding local experts who share a vision of sustainable modernity and bottling it.

Neal Martin of the Wine Advocate observed – “When the indefatigable May-Elaine de Lencquesaing purchased the 128-hectare Glenelly Estate in 2003, a new chapter opened up for her upon the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain. The following year, 60-hectares or red and 5-hectares of white grape varieties were planted, although it was not until 2009 that the state-of-the-art winery became operational. The first release was a Cape Blend from imported grapes and, to be honest, I remember the quality not being up to standard. However, the appointment of Luke O’Cuinneagain, who had worked at Chateau Angelus, Screaming Eagle and Rustenberg, plus the consultancy of Adi Badenhorst has had an immediate impact, and I was very impressed by these wines. She will be giving her old Deuxieme Cru a run for its money soon (and let’s not even think about comparing prices!)”

Winemaker, Luke O’Cuinneagain, mentions a very specific focus to make "fresh and elegant wines. "Unlike most, we don’t just whack them in wood, and let the wood lead the wine." he smiles, and sips. Knowing there's a better way to blend old and new is key to Glenelly Estate wine. Combining hands-on and state of the art methods, they mix contemporary technology and timeless practices, sometimes importing techniques that O’Cuinneagain learned during his time abroad working at some of the best wineries in France. For example, ripe vine stems are used in the fermentation process to impart freshness to the Glass Collection Shiraz: "Rather than spice, you get violet and jasmine coming through." smiles Luke. Poetry, pure and simple.