D. Fontaine-Gagnard is one of the finest and most important producers in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. The D. has its origin in the fine Gagnard-Delagrange holdings of forty-five years ago, as the vineyards hail from the marriage of Richard Fontaine to Jacques Gagnard?s oldest daughter, Laurence Gagnard, in 1982.The style of the wines at D. Fontaine-Gagnard is for intense, racy, deep and complex Chassagnes that start out life classically balanced and accessible, but always with fine expressions of terroir and the underlying structure to age gracefully as well. The wines are always focused and detailed, and are generally aged in about a third new oak for the premier crus and a bit more for the grand crus. Richard Fontaine makes a very good Chassagne villages which is not to be overlooked, but the real fireworks begin with the premier crus.There is Chassagne ?Clos St. Jean? that is always the most forward of the premier crus and quite popular on wine lists, due to its early appeal. There are holdings as well in Chassagne ?Maltroie? and Chassagne ?Vergers? that are generally a bit more structured than the Clos St. Jean, and will reward at least a few years bottle age, and have no difficulty aging for fifteen to twenty years in a top vintage. The top two premier crus in the Fontaine-Gagnard lineup are their Caillerets, (whose very chalky soils typically produce the longest-lived premier cru in the D.?s portfolio) and their dramatic and always superb la Roman?e.
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