Robert Parker: Wine Advocate # 188. Apr 2010. Reviewer : Robert Parker. La Mission Haut-Brion has made so many great wines over the last 100 years, it would be stupid to say the 2009 somehow exceeds this estate-s great classics, such as 1929, 1945, 1949, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1998, 2000, or 2005. Certainly it will take its place in the pantheon of all the great La Mission Haut-Brions ever made. There are 6,000 cases of it, made from a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. The natural alcohol hit 14.7%, which far exceeds the perfect wines of 1982, 1989 and 1990. Opaque purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with camphor, charcoal, hints of burning embers and truffles, and loads of black berry and black currant fruit, the wine has sublime concentration and purity, a finish that goes well past 60 seconds, and not a hard edge to be found in this sumptuous, almost over-the-top, full-bodied wine of enormous power and massive density and richness. An immortal effort, it should drink well for 50-100 years! (Tasted once.). Drink: 2010 - 2110.
Jancis Robinson: Published : 07-Apr-2010. Dark crimson. Scented, pretty, rather haunting aroma. Very rich and caressing – lovely texture. Still very firm and dry. The house signature of those warm bricks even in the super-ripe, super-imposing vintage of 2009! Lovely glow, and quite a bit alcohol on the end, but definitely no sweetness. SO different from the norm on the right bank... Almost inky finish. Seems very Cabernet to me. Fades just a little fast. When to drink : 2020 to 2040.
Wine Spectator: Updated: April 15, 2010. Shows juicy aromas of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon and currant, with hints of forest fruits and sandalwood. Full-bodied, offering chewy, mouthcoating tannins that are fruit-coated and velvety. Dense and powerful. A little subdued. Could be better than I think. —J.S.
Stephen Tanzer: May/Jun 10. By Ian D'Agata. (Leognan (47% merlot, 47% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc; a selection of 50% of the crop; 14.7% alcohol; pH 3.84; 78 IPT)) Deep ruby. Captivating aromas of strawberry and raspberry complicated by strong mineral and tobacco nuances. Remarkably graceful-almost weightless-in the mouth, with very nice depth to the pure red fruit, cedar and mineral flavors. The perfumed, very long finish features some assertive, youthful tannins that will require at least six or seven years of patience after release. This La Mission is closer in style to the La Chapelle than I recall in recent years (perhaps due to the similar blends), though a noticeable step up in precision and concentration. A great if understated wine, it's also completely different from the '05 La Mission, which contained a whopping 69% merlot.
Decanter: Steven Spurrier, Decanter.com, 19 pts - "Black red, marvellously intense expression of black fruits on the nose, slightly smoky with pure vineyard density and breed, magnificent structure, even slightly lush middle, great definition and length. Drink 2018-40."
Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com, (March 2010), 18-19+/20pts - "This is 47% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 6% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 14.7% (2005 was previously the highest at 14.2%). Accounts for 57% of the harvest. A less vibrant hue than La Chapelle, concentrated and a little deeper in colour, and rather like Haut-Brion today it is not being so expressive. But there is a savoury edge to what fruit it presents, and the substance on the palate is just lovely, broad and sweetly fruited, with exotic cherry, plum and damson notes. This is fresh, perfumed too, with floral notes, delicious style backed up by svelte tannins which coat the mouth with a velvety skin, and alongside some delicious acidity. This should be delicious."
Neal Martin, erobertparker.com, 95-97pts - "Tasted at the chateau. Delivering a hefty 14.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.84, the ’09 La Mission has a beautiful bouquet with wonderful definition, quite feminine with pure blackberry, raspberry, orange-blossom and a touch of pencil lead. Very focused and lifted. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, very good structure but extraordinarily tightly coiled, ready to spring into life in 10-15 years. Hints of tobacco and espresso towards the finish that has a gentle but insistent tannic grip. Saline finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2010."
Tim Atkin, www.timatkin.com, 96 pts - "The Cabernet Sauvignon achieved the same potential alcohol as the Merlot in 2009 – hence the unheard of 14.7% alchol level here. Despite the power, this still has levels of acidity that are more reminiscent of Piedmont than Bordeaux. The oak isn’t integrated yet, adding a touch of bitterness to the wine, but the freshness and fruit richness point to an exciting future. 20+ years."
Vinification: The harvest is naturally gathered by hand, with sorting beginning in the vineyard where truck-mounted sorting tables are positioned. Fermentation is in the aforementioned stainless steel vats, which hold 180 hectolitres, with the temperature regulated to 30°C, and the whole process under the control of a dedicated computer system. Once the fermentation is finished the wine is transferred into oak, using 100% new wood, where the wine rests typically for 22 months, before an egg white fining and bottling, without filtration.
