Domaine Versino ( also known as Bois de Boursan) produces gorgeous, traditional-style Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Chatty, enthusiastic Jean-Paul Versino is the third generation of this ex-Piedmontese family in Ch.neuf. The estate took the name of the lieu-dit where the family lives, Bois de Boursan, in the mid-1980s. It is now 16 hectares (40 acres), divided into 27 plots that are spread all over the Ch.neuf territory. Since the vineyards the family aquired were from retiring owners, most of the vines are between 40 to 100 years-old (the 2 HA of young vines are sold off each year). Although this complicates day-to-day work, the diversity of terroirs and locations is a plus when adverse climatic conditions strike (like hail, rot, etc.). Also, given the vast size of the appellation, each vintage favors certain sectors over others. Only the top parcels make it into the final wine any given year, with the rest is sold to negociants.